Capri (pronounced Ka-pree, stress on the first syllable) is a 45-minute aliscafo (hydrofoil) from Molo Beverello in Naples. The island splits into two towns: Capri, the harbour-side hub with the famous piazzetta and the Faraglioni sea stacks, and Anacapri, the quieter upper town on Monte Solaro’s shoulder. Most first-time visitors underrate the second and overrate the first.
Capri vs Anacapri.
Capri town is where the tour boats land, the piazzetta fills at aperitivo hour, and the luxury hotels (Grand Hotel Quisisana, JK Place Capri, Punta Tragara) look out over the Marina Piccola side. Anacapri is quieter, higher, greener, and cheaper. The chairlift to Monte Solaro’s summit leaves from Anacapri’s Piazza Vittoria and gives you the widest view of the Bay of Naples you will see anywhere. If you have three nights, spend two in Anacapri and one in Capri town.
What to see.
The Faraglioni sea stacks are worth the walk to Punta Tragara viewpoint, or a boat around them for the tunnel between Faraglione di Mezzo. Via Krupp is a switchback path down to Marina Piccola, closed occasionally for rockfall risk. Villa San Michele in Anacapri, Axel Munthe’s house, is a small archaeological garden museum well worth an hour. The Blue Grotto is worth doing once, not defending: rowing boats in a queue, three minutes inside, then out. Skip if the sea is above force 3.
Is Capri worth it?
Yes, once, in shoulder season (May, early June, September, early October). No, if you can only visit in July or August, and are not paying for a hotel that gives you a private terrace to retreat to. The day-tripper crowd from Naples and the Amalfi Coast peaks between 11am and 4pm; if you stay the night, the island’s better version emerges after 6pm.